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An Introduction
Who Did What?
Clothier
Woolstapler
Dyer
Willower
Scribbler
Blender
Carder
Slubbing
Spinner
Quilley Winder
Warper
Weaver
Finishing
• Burler
• Scourer
• Mender
• Fuller
• Tentering
• Raiser
• Shearer
• Presser
• Factor
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Fuller
or Miller
Fulling was the great traditional craft skill of the West
of England.
Further cleaning of the cloth was done by the fuller – called a walker – by
treading the cloth. He stood barefoot in a trough of cold water containing a
detergent such as fullers earth. Some thickening of the cloth occurred but because
no heat was generated, it was minimal.
Mechanisation of this finishing
process in the 11cen made life much easier for the fuller. Water
power was used to work fulling stocks, a machine with two large
wooden hammers raised on tappets. The cloth was contained in a
trough – the stock – and was repeatedly beaten by the
rising and falling hammers. Such hammers did generate heat and
heavily felted cloth was produced. It took several hours to get
the right degree of felting. The piece shrank by about one third
of its length and one quarter of its width.
By the 13cen, fulling stocks were in use in this area wherever a river provided
sufficient water power. Fullers earth continued to be used for
coarser cloths but during the18cen, oil soap was used for finer ones. Some clothiers
ran their own fulling mills which was often the base of their operations. Ladydown
fulling mill was built in 1726 and water power was still used until well into
the 19cen.
The patent for a rotary fulling machine was obtained by John Dyer, a Trowbridge
engineer in 1833. The two ends of a piece of cloth were lightly tacked together
so that the cloth could pass continually around rollers which generated friction
and thus heat. Later a synthetic detergent was used instead of soap or fullers
earth.
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